North America Dispatch #19: Fried Chicken, Frozen Custard, and Barbecue
Eastern-ish North Carolina
As discussed in the podcast I recorded en route (MP3 file), I had lunch at the Farmer’s Market Restaurant (Raleigh Farmer’s Market, 1240 Farmer’s Market Drive, Raleigh, North Carolina; 919-833-7973), a very well-known spot that had piqued my interest since I read about it in the book Southern Belly. I’ll let the photos do the talking:
The South is a place where a grown-up can order chocolate milk without compunction.
Experience the thrill of arriving dishes via PlateCam (be sure you’re seated; the profusion of amazing-looking dishes could make strong men dizzy!): Movie file
Main conclusion … MAN that fried chicken’s great. I don’t need to describe it to you because it tastes exactly like it looks (click the photos for the full-sized food-porn view).
The Raleigh Farmer’s Market itself is very laid-back, and quality is high.
Cornhounds vie for position to spy the best ears.
The ice cream tastes as simple, homespun, and irresistible as the sign.
Could you imagine a more transportive array? I hope Atkinson’s stays in business another 250 years.
Blenheim, a super-potent ginger ale.
The cute blonde woman who sat next to me at the counter of the Farmer’s Market Restaurant urged me to try Goodberry’s Frozen Custard (1146 Kildaire Farm Road, Cary, North Carolina; 919-467-2386). I checked it out, and it was honest-to-goodness real frozen custard, not just glorified soft-serve. Wow!
Experience the extruding suspense of CustardCam: Movie file
Hear the exultant slurping in Podcast 2: MP3 file
The great New Jersey frozen custard mentioned in the podcast is at CustardThing (100 North Washington Avenue, Bergenfield, New Jersey; 201-439-1818).
Wilber’s (4172 U.S. 70, East Goldsboro, North Carolina; 919-778-5218) makes great barbecue. It has vastly more depth of flavor and complexity than what I’d previously derided as “sloppy Joe” barbecue, in which the pork is mushy and one-dimensional. The meat seems hand-sliced but isn’t quite the textural marvel of Allen & Son’s. It’s also not as moist as Allen & Son’s —though it’s by no means dry. Saucing is very light.
BBQ chicken is moist and richly flavorful but tastes of no smoke at all. The rich yellow sauce is redolent of chicken fat and manages to taste sharp without any chili pepper.
Nice surprise —the cherry pie was made with sour cherries. Unfortunately, they microwaved it. Why does everyone down here nuke pie? And, for that matter, does anyone in the South still make real mashed potatoes?
« Previous Post: Great 'Cue with Bob Garner, Two Pillars of Mexican Cooking, and a Deafening Honduran Pool Hall«
»Next Post: Great Beer, So-So Antelope, and the ParkingHounds' Big Debut »
Ahem. The address of the frozen custard place in New Jersey is....?
Dave Feldman Oct 15, 2006 12:39AM
Ahem! :)
Per above:
"The great New Jersey frozen custard mentioned in the podcast is at CustardThing (100 North Washington Avenue, Bergenfield, New Jersey; 201-439-1818)."
Jim Leff Oct 15, 2006 10:06AM
You've got to be kidding about Goodberry's. All their flavors taste like vanilla with food coloring. I know C'hounding is about finding those hidden gems, but this is not one of them.
rockycat Nov 14, 2006 02:05PM
Are those hot dog shaped things hushpuppies?
pattisue Nov 16, 2006 12:27PM
That is the standard shape of Hushpuppies in North Carolina.
chops Nov 17, 2006 04:05PM
I stand by Goodberry's. In fact, I was there with a gelato snob who's about the last person you'd ever bring for any sort of soft-serve ice cream, and he just about lost it.
High-end refined ice cream it's not, but this is DAMNED good frozen custard, and I've eaten frozen custard all over the country. You don't realize how good you've got it! Give it another try! :)
Jim Leff Nov 25, 2006 01:34AM
Soooo glad you got to try Wilbur's. My family eats there every time we take a trip to the beach. Not mentioned but well worth a try -- the Brunswick stew YUM! About pie ... we don't eat it that much, so we're suprised and nuke it for you! :-) Given an option in the south - go with cobbler.
charliefur Aug 17, 2007 03:03PM
Wilburs is wonderful. Better than Allen and Sons and MUCH cheaper and more authentic.
I have lived in NC my whole life and have never noticed that it was common or acceptable for an adult to order chocolate milk in a restaurant. That's strictly for the under 12 year olds.
southerners Sep 02, 2007 05:42PM
...and me!
Jim Leff Oct 10, 2007 06:02PM